Installation Guide

Make sure everything is moved so you have space to move around, there are dust sheets down to protect surfaces, and any surfaces that are close to the tiling (such as kitchen units or worktops) are given extra protection to make sure there are no scratches or damages. We recommend that any coving, skirting boards, or other aesthetic pieces are removed to give the wall a better final look, rather than having the tiles extruding above the coving for example. If you really want either of these things, you can re-apply on top of the tiles afterward. Pull out any plug sockets and switches, to be re-attached once the project is complete.

Ensure you know where the tiles need to start in order to not end up with thin cuts or large mortar joints at either the top or ends and that any corner tiles fit nicely. You should also lay out all of the tools needed so everything is handy. Open all boxes of the tiles and ensure they are mixed together for an even spread of color variations.

Score and prime the wall to prepare it for the installation, making sure that there is maximum adhesion for the adhesive and tile.

Mix the adhesive to a smooth paste that holds when you create peaks in the mixture.

Starting at the bottom- in the center, or at the external corners if you need them, use an adhesive trowel to spread a cm on the wall, and apply to each tile before pressing firmly on the wall with slight movement to make it stick nicely, and insert the required number of spacers in between (it may be 1 for contemporary brick slips or up to 3 for reclaimed brick slips where there is a rustic tile). Make sure that all the tiles are curving or have their creases upwards (smiling bricks, not frowning), they are made by pushing them down into a mold, so the creases or slight misshaping in that way comes from this process. You may wish to use a spirit level as you proceed just to check that more tumbled brick tiles are still around the level. Some people even use a strip of wood rather than spacers to ensure a completely straight mortar

When you reach the end of a row, you will more than likely need to cut the tile to finish that row, you’ll also need to cut to tile around sockets and switches.

Continue to tile upwards as previously, with a section of adhesive applied at a time.

Once you’ve tiled the full surface, use a stiff brush to make sure there’s no adhesive left on your tiles.

Now you can clear away most of your items, with only the pointing mortar to apply. The adhesive needs to dry however so it’s advisable to leave it for 24 hours.

Make sure you protect your surfaces from getting mortar on them with a dust sheet again, and remove all the spacers from the wall, they should come out easily, but you can use pliers to remove them if not.

Mix Your Mortar together to a smooth paste that will slip off a trowel but hold its form still in the bucket. Then you can add it to your pointing gun ready to apply.

In applying the mortar, we recommend using a mortar gun, or grout piping bag. To use this you simply fill the gun/bag with the mixture, then shake downwards to release the first mortar and shake out any residual air in the gun. You need to carefully fill the gaps, then you can finish in your chosen profile with a brick joint. Do not spread mortar on the tile faces, or try to clean with a wet cloth as this will smear mortar across the bricks, and you will need to use brick acid to remove it.

To finish the profile, use a pointing trowel and smooth out the joints as you want them.

Using a stiff brush, clean any excess mortar from the brickwork before it dries, then you can clean up the room. Do not wipe the wall in any way as you may well end up smearing mortar across the bricks. The only way to clean that off is with brick acid.
After 12-24 hours the mortar will have dried enough that you can re-fit switches and sockets. The full drying process can potentially take a week depending on the conditions. Then you need to sit back and enjoy your wall.